13 August 2023

We Are So Happy With Our Move to Rothesay on The Isle of Bute

It's hard to believe that I've been calling the Isle of Bute my home for the past nine months. Each day, I get to wake up to a breathtaking view from my bedroom window. The decision to leave Hexham in Northumberland, where we spent over 30 happy years, was a bold one, but neither of us has any regrets about embarking on this new adventure.

Our journey to Bute began during the midst of the Covid pandemic. We rekindled a long-held desire to live in Scotland. I fancied the idea of island life, but Chris preferred a place that wasn't too remote.

1. A Regular Ferry Service With Great Public Transport Links.

   Just an hour and a half away from Glasgow by train and ferry, the Isle of Bute has turned out to be the perfect choice. Frequent ferries run every hour between Wemyss Bay and Rothesay from 6:30 am until 8 pm in the winter (and 9 pm in the summer). There is a shorter ferry journey at the north end of the island from Rhubudoch to Colintraive as well. Bute's accessibility was a major factor in our decision. West Coast Scottish islands are serviced by an ageing fleet of CalMac ferries. Whilst the service to and from Bute is not perfect (especially in winter) it’s a lot better than most.

2. A place of Inspiration.

One of my key criteria was moving to a place that inspires me. I wanted to live close to the sea and Bute exceeds my expectations. The island greets me with jaw-dropping views, from my house and from all parts of the island, regardless of the weather. The mountains on Arran rise majestically from the sea, a spectacular brooding presence on the west side of the island.

3. With an active creative community.

I was also looking for somewhere that has an active artists community. Before we settled on choosing Bute we considered Oban on the mainland partly because of the Rockfield Centre. During one of our early visits to Bute when one of the pandemic lockdowns was lifted, Alison Clarke, the chair of the Isle of Bute Artists Collective, invited us for a cup of tea. We stayed for a couple of hours, enough to convince me that I would find a supportive art community here.

I became a member shortly after we arrived and threw myself into supporting and promoting the annual Bute Studio Trail. This year it showcased the work of 43 artists in 27 venues across the island in July. It was the perfect incentive to get my new studio built and ready for visitors. My first open studio event was a very positive one with over 80 visitors from both on and off the island.

4. The abundant and diverse wildlife

Chris and I joined the local bird-watching group because we have such an abundance of interesting birdlife on our doorstep and we want to learn more. We also joined the Natural History Society attached to Bute Museum to learn more about the history of where we live. We’ve been out with various sub-groups to explore the archaeology and the wildflowers across the island. One of this summer’s highlights so far was witnessing the nesting ospreys soaring over Loch Fad in search of food.

5. We're discovering new pleasures on the island every day.

Our house overlooks The Pavilion, a 1930s Bauhaus-inspired architectural gem. It is currently undergoing extensive and somewhat controversial renovation. We have had a fascinating view of the temporary roof construction to remove and replace the permanent roof that is not fit for purpose. It leaked, seriously damaging the second-largest sprung dance floor in the UK after Blackpool.

We love watching the daily maritime traffic ranging from (really ugly) billionaire super yachts to the bustling MV Argyle and Bute ferries, and humble fishing boats. We currently have a beautiful yacht called the Catalina moored below us.

6. The warm welcome of the locals has made us feel right at home.

The island's population is a wonderful, if surprising mix of nationalities, bringing accents and cultures from all over the UK, South Africa, Syria, Sudan, the Netherlands, Belgium, the States and Canada. We have been welcomed with open arms making us feel totally at home here.

7. The seafront tells a story of the Victorian era

Rothesay was once a fashionable holiday destination for wealthy Glasgow merchants. The legacy of those times lives on, with many Glaswegian families still holding strong connections with the island. The somewhat faded grandeur of the buildings along the promenade gives you an idea of a place that was once thronging with thousands of holidaymakers before people started to fly off to sunnier climes where sunshine was guaranteed. With climate change and the unbelievable daytime temperatures in Europe, perhaps that is about to change and people begin to opt out of flying and discovering what they have on their own doorstep.

8. We've also become members of Mount Stuart

A Gothic revivalist house with a rich history and a commitment to art that carries through to the present day, evidenced by its contemporary art program and Bute Yard, the brainchild of Johnny Bute, the late 7th Marquis which opened this summer. We first visited the grounds during the winter and found one of the best beaches on the island. I’ve since been to a fascinating talk about the connection the house has with The Dovecot Studios in Edinburgh and Kaffe Fassett who was commissioned to create five tapestries by the then Marquess of Bute. A guided tour of the house has shone further light on the Crichton-Stuart support for art and the arts which continues today with an active contemporary art programme.

In the heart of Bute, we've found the kind of environment that fuels my creativity and a diverse community that continues to enrich my life perspective. The Isle of Bute isn't just where I live; it's where I feel I am now thriving. With each passing day, I am looking forward to the future, supporting initiatives like Bute Yard, where creativity is being given an opportunity to flourish and breathe new life into the island. The island continues to attract artists and kindred spirits. Take a look at how the island has inspired me since I arrived.

And if you are inspired to come and visit Beautiful Bute yourself do pop in an visit my studio. Just make sure you call or email beforehand.

I don’t want you arrive and be disappointed because you find me out for the day or away.